Sounds like your water pump lost it's prime since you ran it dry. I can help you try priming the system with the steps below. If that doesn't help you may have a blockage or need a new pump.
Fill up your fresh water tank.
Turn on the cold water in your RV and make sure the faucets are completely open.
Switch on the water pump near your RV water tank.
This should prime the pump by pushing water up from the tank through your faucet. Let the water flow a while, then turn the faucets off.... view full answer...
The Seaflo Submersible Utility Pump for Boats and RVs # SE54FR is a water pump and is designed for short intermittent use so it wouldn't really increase the pressure for your RV how you're needing it to. You would instead need to install a higher GPM and PSI rated water pump than what you currently have and/or an accumulator tank like the Seaflo Accumulator Tank for RV and Boat Water Pumps # SE38FR to increase the pressure.
If you're running off of city water pressure from the campground... view full answer...
An RV water pump should only turn on as the faucet calls for water. If the pump keeps running you either have a leak or issue with the pressure switch of your water pump. The first thing to check is the voltage to the pump before and during use with a multimeter # PT89ZR. If the pump is getting the required voltage (12v or 120v depending on model) to properly function it can cause a false reading for the pressure switch. The pressure switch could also need an adjustment if the psi level... view full answer...
RV water pumps are known to be noisy but if it's excessive you can try using the Valterra RV Water Pump Silencing Kit - (2) 36" Long Hoses - 1/2" Diameter Item # P23512PB to quiet it down. If that doesn't work you can also add in an in-line accumulator tank to help but this is a pricier option.
If you would like to replace your current water pump the Flow Max RV Fresh Water Pump - 12 Volt - 3.0 Gallons Per Minute - 45 PSI Item # LC689052 is known to be one of the quieter brands. view full answer...
I spoke to my contact at Valterra and he does not recommend adjusting the pressure on the HydroMax RV Fresh Water Pump - 12 Volt - 3 Gallons Per Minute - 55 psi # P25201. He said that they come from the factory adjusted where they should be for best results.
He did think that there may be an obstruction in the water tank causing the water flow to be less than it should. He said that you would want to make sure the water line is clear to the tank and that there is nothing in the tank that... view full answer...
Since the water filter could become clogged with debris, sediment, etc. there is the possibility that this is causing the low pressure. You can replace the cartridge inside your filter with part # CAM40621 to see if this solves the issue. If not then it could be that the regulator is the issue and that you'll need to replace it with another like part # A01-1124VP. Regulators can fail over time or become clogged up internally so it wouldn't be out of the realm of possibility that this is... view full answer...
Depending on how your plumbing is setup you could have a check valve at the water inlets and also in certain spots throughout the system. On my dad's fifth wheel he has specific valves he has to shut off or on depending on whether he's using city water or holding tank water.
I recommend first replacing the city water inlet since that one should have a check valve attached to it. We have a variety of options like the RV City Water Inlet with Brass Check Valve # 37262165, which has a 1/2"... view full answer...
The first thing to always check is the power and ground when it comes to anything electronic. Double-check that you're actually getting a full 12 volts to the pump # LC689052 with a multimeter # PT89ZR. If not then the power source is the issue and can cause the the pump to partially work, like you've been experiencing.
When you winterized your trailer last fall did you run all of the water out of the line? This pump is safe to run dry so you could empty the tank and turn on the pump... view full answer...
When you checked the fuse did you test it with a multimeter # PT89ZR to see if power was actually passing through to the water pump or did you just look at the fuse to see if it was blown? It's also not uncommon for there to be an in-line fuse at the pump and another at the dc distribution board if it's not ran directly to the battery. The quickest way to test this would be to prick into the casing of the power wire right at the pump to see what the voltage is. If you're not getting 12... view full answer...
If your freshwater tank is filling up with water when on city water then the gasket inside your water pump has failed and is allowing water to backflow. This is typically caused by not using a regulator # A01-1124VP on high pressure city water systems, improper winterization allowing water to freeze in the pump, or the gasket just failed due to age/usage.
You'll want to check the psi and gpm listed on your current pump so that you can determine the correct replacement. I've attached a... view full answer...
While the HydroMax RV Fresh Water Pump, # P25201 can be adjusted, the Tech Rep at Valterra recommends against doing so stating that the units are set at the factory for best results.
You will want to adjust the By-Pass spring by turning the screw. Screwing the by-pass screw in will raise the pressure and unscrewing the by-pass screw counterclockwise will lower the pressure. view full answer...
It's probably not the faucet that's caused the water pressure drop and is instead the water pump either going bad or not having enough power to create the pressure needed. If the battery on the trailer is charged it would be time for a new water pump like the HydroMax part # P25201. view full answer...
The Flow Max RV Fresh Water Pump - 12 Volt - 3.3 Gallons Per Minute - 45 PSI # LC689052 sounds like it doesn't have a proper priming which it is designed to automatically do. There are some things to check in the owners manual that I've made a copy of to assist. Check each one of these suggestions one at a time to narrow down the possible causes.
I'd also turn off the bypass to your hot water heater as that fitting may be the issue, so check it both ways. view full answer...
If the hot water from your Fogatti RV Tankless Water Heater # LSB64FR is fading back to cold it could be for the following reasons:
If you have a lack of lp gas pressure the unit won't be able to keep up. Typically you would get an error code with this. Since you're not it leads me to believe that it's either a water pressure issue or electrical issue.
Check the water pressure at the unit to ensure it's getting around 40-50psi so that it can keep up with the demand at the point of use... view full answer...
To start I would have a licensed technician check the LP pressure running to your Fogatti RV Tankless Water Heater - Gas - Automatic Pilot - 41,800 Btu - White Item # LSB64FR. It needs to be 11" WC for the unit to properly work. If it is sufficient then you most likely have a bad thermostat or control module which would require you to reach out to the manufacturer for replacement. view full answer...
We do have water inlet fittings, like the Valterra Water Inlet for RVs # A01-0176LFVP, that would replace the entry fitting on the outside of your pop up camper if you decide to replace that fitting.
To replace the water lines inside/under your camper, typically PEX pipes and fittings are used to make those connections. We do not have these available for purchase, but they are usually available at your local hardware store. view full answer...
For the Fogatti RV Tankless Water Heater # LSB64FR to work properly you'll need the following specs with your setup:
Propane - 8-13" WC (11"WC pressure preferred)
Water - 14.5-116 PSI (40-45 PSI preferred)
Power - 12VDC
If one of these don't match up then that would explain why your water heater is just shutting down. If your setup meets these specs please let me know and I can help you troubleshoot further. view full answer...
The Furrion RV Tankless Water Heater, # FR93FR uses a vortex system mixing the heated water with cold to eliminate fluctuations and reduce the risk of hot water scalding. It sounds like you may need to adjust the water control valve. I have linked the manufactures User Manual below which has a note listed to ensure your inlet water pressure is not greater than 65 psi. If you are not using an RV water pressure regulator I highly recommend that you get one.
I prefer the 90-degree angled... view full answer...
It is challenging to know for certain if the Camco RV Drain Trap for 3/4" Diameter Drain Hose, # CAM37262 will help in this situation. I do see it as a cost effective attempt. I think best long term would be to reroute the drain lines to more aggressive angles with more direct flow to holding tank, if this is possible. I would attempt these routes before installing a pump. view full answer...
The first thing I would do is check for leaks. It is possible, even though the trailer was winterized, something froze and cracked. It may not be a bad leak but a leak nonetheless could cause the system to steadily lose pressure which would make the pump run.
Since pump # P25201 is automatic it would either be that (loss of pressure) or an electrical issue. You can check the connections and clean any corrosion or debris away. Corrosion could cause a short and make the pump run. I can't... view full answer...
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